Valparaiso, or 'Valpo' as affectionately referred to by the locals, is challenging Buenos Aires for the top spot in my favourite Latin American cities. The cultural capital of Chile has a bohemian vibe about it, and also a freneticness that takes some getting used to. I stayed on the Cerro (hill) Concepcion, which connects to the lower-levels via Valpo's famous funiculars (elevators), which are an experience in themselves. Valparaiso is a mecca for street art and graf artists. Colourfully painted steps link the winding streets and alleys of sherbet-hued wooden houses, which have become giant canvases for graf and muralists to showcase their talent. The panoramic views looking down across the city and it's impressive merchant port from Cerro Concepcion are pretty wow, but it's Valpo's infectious street art that steals the show for me.