Like a good (chilean!) wine, Santiago just gets better with time. Despite the dramatic backdrop of snow-tipped Andean peaks, it's not the prettiest of cities at first glance. But by day two I discover the quirky neighbourhoods of Lastilla, Paris Londres & Bellavista (the latter great for night owls) and before I know it, this cosmopolitan city is working it's Chilean charms on me. One of the highlights is a visit to La Chascona, the Chilean Poet Pablo Neruda's ship-like house. The poet's love of all things maritime is clear as you explore each nook and cranny of this quirky abode. A personal favourite is the colourful fish mural which adorns one of the exterior walls. And if you ever wondered what La Chascona translates as, it means 'messy hair', said to be inspired by Pablo's mistress's remarkable curly hair (what a charmer eh!).